For Good Chinese, Fill up at Philippe

Actually, brown rice is listed as an á la carte side — just like fried rice with chicken, shrimp, or pork. The last was fresh and light, flecked with teeny bits of meat, sliced scallions, and a small amount of fried egg. The soy infusion was subtle, the flavor bland, and the temperature lukewarm.

Restaurant business surveys show tableside dessert presentations are a sure-fire means of increasing sales, but these are predicated on said pastries parading a visual appeal that seductively whispers, "Take me." Philippe's quintet, displayed on a three-tier cake stand, mumbles, "Take me or leave me." Least alluring of the lot was pear pound cake: four clumsily cut squares centering a scoop of vanilla ice cream. A cupcake-size red velvet cake, the most fetching of the few, came so thickly swathed in vanilla cream cheese — top, middle layer, and sides — that the tasty red velvet tones were reduced to singing backup. One can practically hear Elvis groan; Lord only knows what he'd say when told it costs $14 (plus tax and tip).

An army of workers roams the floor. Their attendance to diners is quiet, polite, and mostly professional — though sometimes not so much. On a busy weekend evening, we were often left in the lurch, and even on a calmer visit, the staff hadn't learned the art of numbering orders to know who gets what. We also noticed quite a few runners roaming around without a clue as to where food had been ordered. Still, owing to the sheer volume of employees ambling about, service is solid enough to more than satisfy. There are likewise few quibbles over the quality of nibbles. Unfortunately not as much can be said about the value.