Por Fin Is Fine

The staff is superbly attuned to such details. Upon our requesting ice for lukewarm water, the waiter removed and emptied the glasses and refilled them with ice water from a carafe, which is considerately left on diners' tables. And as we waited for an only slightly tardy dessert, a manager came by to explain they'd erred with the order, apologized, and brought it to us minutes later.

The torrija was worth the wait. Two rectangles of brioche wowed with wispily brittle brûlée-esque crusts and creamy, almost flan-like interiors. Plum and apple sauces were streaked on the plate, which was centered by a generous quenelle of cappuccino ice cream — a subtle deconstruction of French toast with fruit and a cup of coffee. Combo #2 on Heaven's breakfast menu?

Other desserts delve into French (white chocolate mousse), American (apple tart with vanilla ice cream), and Caribbean territory (passion fruit cream, mint, and coconut foam). Also exhibiting an island twist is crema catalana, whose caramelized sugar cap comes crowned with banana ice cream, rum-caramelized pineapple, and chocolate sauce — overkill, but tasty in a messy way.

Good news travels fast. The restaurant is packed on weekends and busy enough in general that advance reservations are highly recommended. The reaction of Gables residents has thus far been: "At last, Por Fin."